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Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Carry on, An Experiment in International Living on the Camino De Santiago

Our shoes were tied, feet already sweating in thick socks, water bottles filled and ready to go and all by a chirpy 5:30 am.  Starting in Pamplona and ending about 350 km later, in Ponferrada, here is a quick glimpse into the world I experienced while walking the Camino De Santiago this summer. 



There we were, Heather and Heather, 20 minutes after watching the running bulls and then being led out of Estella, Spain by a helpful old man who wanted to dictate the entire history of the town to us.  We promised him, "another time," and carried on.  As we neared the path guided by yellow arrows on buildings, glances exchanged, we knew this was going to be a long, tiring day.  We´d had our best night so far, 3 days into the trip, bull watching and dancing with locals, a dinner with an association of students. Nevertheless, an evening on the Camino de Santiago out until 1:30 am, I learned shortly after, was a rare, wondrous and slightly dangerous thing.  


As we began day 4 of our walk, happy to see some pine canopies draped above our heads, taking shelter from the powerful sun.  Shortly later, right next to the Fuente Del Vino, as if by some strange stroke of luck, fellow hungover friends on the Camino, we met Alex, Antoine and Rudolph, some of our best of the Camino friends.  Young, worldly French/ German boys who could charm a cockroach, we delighted in their antics, conversation and ridiculousness for the next week.  Some of the moments included: the early morning Birthday song and presentation to Ms. Rich; getting run out of churches by wirey, old ladies; getting lost on the golf course, eating for kings in Burgos; the Whitney Houston serenade in the plaza; and long good talks about travels, futures, relationships and more.  As far as the generation underneath mine, often  being called detached and not present; Alex, Antoine and Rudolph gave me hope that the future of tomorrow is on the right track. 


The more we walked, the easier it became.  Sometimes, Heather and I walked together.  Other times, nearly 20 minutes apart.  From Burgos to Leon, after Heather returned to Munich, I was often alone and with my thoughts, intoxicated by the nature around me, overflowing energy combined with some tunes I will forever associate with the Camino inspiring great warmth within my body.  

And then, there were walking partners,  Paki and Fernando, from Maturo, who were like surrogate parents, making sure that I was always comfortable, okay, healthy, etc.   There was Beni, a 57 year old Madridleno, with a love for ladies and a vinito.  And, Roberto, a man with a heart of gold, who would dish the world out for you on a platter, if you let him.  Roberto and Beni, were more after walking companions.  We´d meet for a drink or dinner, or a laugh.  Hannah and Adam, a young British couple who saved me in the last three dry, deserted days of the Burgos to Leon stage when I was aching for company.  Italian friends, who tried to communicate by listening in Spanish, responding in Italian, broken English or Spanish.  And that pretty much was the whole nature of the trip, just a group of people, ranging in age from 7 to 87,  trying to get by and wanting to understand each other.  Just think of what could happen in the real world, if people worked as hard to understand one another as they did each day on the Camino.  The funny thing, is that, the communication was often the easy part compared to some of the long days of walking. One night at dinner in Carrion de Los Condes, there was Italians, French, American, Spanish and somehow, four different nationalities in a table of 6. We managed, laughed and shared gigantic grins. 


The translation for El Camino is "the way." And I believe it´s because everyone is doing just that: finding their way in life, love, work, spirituality or just not getting lost as they walk across a country.  For me, it was a way to get to know a country better, its people, its ideas, its landscapes, its hopes and fears.  It was also a way to gain patience, acceptance and more appreciation for nature and it inspired me to be more and do more.  You know you are doing something right when the energy of the earth shoots up through your feet, lifting your head a little higher, giving you healthy natural encouragement to carry on.  Carry on, indeed.





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